June fresh

One of the joys of June is the flavors that entice from the organic gardens and farms in Carolina. When the food is June fresh, the taste buds beg for more stimulation. Last weekend, B.J. and I headed downtown to one of our favorite restaurants, named, "Table 16," and were pleasantly seated in the front window at table number 16. We came especially that night to say goodbye to A.J. Gregson, who is leaving Greensboro in pursuit of romance, and new adventures. Last summer, A.J. served a lobster corn dog, presented with a hot chinese mustard and a sweet asian sauce. Amazing! At the Green Hill Center for NC Art "Select" event I helped with this spring, Graham donated hors d' oeuvres, and A.J. served oysters on the half shell, with a sweet onion barbecue sauce. The guests were duly impressed.

Graham Heaton, owner and head chef of "Table 16," was reared on the NC coast and trained in New Orleans. His flavor profile is pure creative genius; a mixture of worldly flavors, tinted with a southern attitude, and a nose pointed toward the ocean tides. The  staff of servers make everything look effortless, as they pour and advise, with no hovering. From most any seat in the house, you can watch the chefs' movements, searing, stirring and tasting. When we dine at "Table 16," we have to make no decisions about what to choose from the monthly changing menu. Graham knows our preferences, and after we discuss what he feels is best, we sit back and allow the kitchen to create and present a tasting of many layers of tastes and textures, in usually five or six small courses. There is never a sense of, "oh, I wish I had ordered that dish!"

We thought the chilled sweet corn vichyssoise was smooth as silk, with miniscule bits of juniper berry-flavored ham and a truffle shaving. Soup was followed by flash-fried crispy Whelk, from the New River, served with a hot cherry marmalade. Third course was Creole alligator, with dirty rice, and a tiny cheese biscuit, which I could have eaten a basket full.  The Ostrich came next with spinach and a licorice-flavored bordelaise. As a finale, we devoured a dreamy frozen slice of white chocolate and strawberry heaven finished with creme fraiche and two coulis. A good bottle of french wine washed away the sins of the palette. 

To dial down the evening, as coffee is poured, Graham always comes out to see if everything was as expected. We always are full of praise and told him it was a perfect June dining experience. We have a reservation in July to celebrate B.J.'s birthday, and I wonder what summery sorcery Graham will conjure and serve?